The New Wave of Haircare Brands
Influencer-lead brands, the changing media mix, and design philosophy
Jeff Wittek, beloved content creator and the mind behind Jeff’s Barbershop, a high-end haircare brand, recently posted a product photo with the caption "Paul Mitchell, your days are numbered." Counting over three million followers across social platforms, Wittek stands at the forefront of the haircare market, taking on traditional brands with his distinctive branding, engaging personality, and versatile product offerings. Unlike the legacy haircare oligopoly, reliant on extensive production and research budgets, Wittek recognizes the individuality of haircare needs through his brand. This realization opens avenues for beauty influencers who have cultivated dedicated followings through their candid recommendations. Consumers gravitate toward influencers that share similar hair types for tailored product suggestions, prompting these influencers to venture into their own haircare lines, leveraging insights from their followers. This trend signals a significant opportunity for influencers, a future where influencers capitalize on their product expertise to launch new ventures. This raises the question: what does it take to launch a successful haircare business?
In today's saturated product market, authenticity reigns supreme in the eyes of consumers. With the purchasing journey increasingly shaped by TikTok and YouTube reviews, authenticity has become easily discernible. Jeff Wittek's background in barbershops underscores his authenticity. From his teenage years spent working in local barbershops to occasionally showcasing his haircutting skills on his YouTube channel, Wittek demonstrates a genuine passion and expertise in the haircare space, essential for success as a new entrant. Earlier this year, Beyoncé entered the market with Cécred, addressing the needs of women with textured hair often overlooked by larger beauty conglomerates. Sharing a personal anecdote on Instagram, Beyoncé revealed, "How many of y’all knew my first job was sweeping hair in my mama’s salon?" This anecdote highlights the intimate connection to the haircare world that has long been integral to her journey, predating her career as a performer. In response to this industry shift, larger brands are ramping up their influencer activations and showcasing a broader range of hair types, aiming to engage their loyal followings and address their specific haircare needs. We're witnessing a market where even a brief comment during a GRWM (get ready with me) video on TikTok or YouTube from an influencer sharing a similar hair type is more validating than a celebrity partnership.
Product effectiveness remains paramount in the industry, yet visual branding and packaging play an equally crucial role in shaping brand perception. Crown Affair stands as a leading haircare brand, boasting a devoted following drawn to its clean ingredients, effective formulas, and stunning branding. Rooted in art, Crown Affair's designs find inspiration in sculpture and retro artists such as Brancusi and Ed Ruscha. The result is a meticulously crafted product that deeply resonates with consumers. Similarly, Aesop, the Australian skincare company acquired by L’Oreal in 2023 for $2.5 billion, is celebrated for its minimalist design approach, extending from its products to its retail spaces. Every aspect, from Aesop's typography to its marketing materials, embodies the Japanese principle of Wabi-Sabi, appreciating imperfect beauty as a hallmark of honest living. Prior to the L’Oreal acquisition, Aesop's Design Department shared its design ethos and manifesto on a website titled Taxonomy of Design, offering insights into the inspiration behind each design. The most successful products and businesses invite consumers into the brand's ideation process. By involving consumers in the branding journey and providing glimpses behind the scenes, brands can develop stronger and more enduring relationships with consumers.
The beauty industry relies on customization for personal needs. To showcase effectiveness and gamify the process, many brands have quizzes you can take online that give you curated recommendations or even custom made products based on your needs. Function of Beauty is one of the leading brands in this space. By taking a hair quiz, they are able to understand what your hair needs and offer a fully custom formula for your goals. The company has estimated annual revenues of ~$150 million and there are many similar brands like Prose that compete for market share, showcasing the success of the fully custom model. These market dynamics extend beyond haircare. We're witnessing a new trend where the consumer is inundated with options and influencers serve as the new consultants and entrepreneurs, uniquely positioned to cater to consumer desires.